More progress made.
I forgot V-bands, or i'd have the cab back on today. Working on a rust-free truck here is rare and making things go faster.



I forgot V-bands, or i'd have the cab back on today. Working on a rust-free truck here is rare and making things go faster.


6.7/CM2100 stock VGT, new injectors, CP3, and studs. Nothing fancy, just a good tow rig.
Real world testing again, picked up more power in the VVT intake timing, more revisions to come but night and day even from my older mod files.

After doing a bunch of research on the problems with newer Dodge chassis, and having been a '98 f-150 owner for the past 18 years, I finally decided I wanted to challenge myself to build the best truck without breaking the bank. Newer fords, even with the 6.7 are overly complex v8's and I'm not entertained by ford's powertrain engineering (at least for the engine).
2008 F450 Lariat White 4x4 5r110 175k miles - bought in July 2025 w/ blown 6.4 FB marketplace
2008 Cummins 6.7 165k miles - bought Sept 2025 FB marketplace
DCS Conversion kit - mainly the electronics, torque converter and turbo w/ manifold
Cummins Conversion bellhousing adapter, flywheel, engine mounts and accessories bracket adapters.
Banks Power grid heater delete kit and other "while you're there" goodies (cab mounts, shocks, turbo upgrade)
Also I forgot to mention earlier that when I have the battery’s hooked up and everything going and powered on, my key when I turn it to the off position nothing turns off my radio, dash lights, interior lights, etc everything still has power with the key off and the only way I can turn everything off is unhooking the battery
so that info is likely your "smoking gun" first thing is to find that issue or it might be easier to send out the harness and get it done. Kevin Nohl at kevin@kjnrepair.com
So I have went through pretty much everything on my wiring and I have checked all my fuses and I’m trying to figure out why my truck I can start it through jumping the starter but the truck when I turned the key over it doesn’t send signal to the starter to start the truck would anyone know anything to help me figure out how to fix this problem or anyone I should call I’ve been looking and I cannot find anything and I have these codes still that my easy link is reading

The p0000 is a drive cycle/readiness thing (not real) B is body=not ecm. the wiring info list in the help/ticket system shows how the system works and if you want to bypass it you can ground the starter relay, either at the ecm or in the fuse box under the hood.
Hey All.
Sorry i haven't posted anything yet. There was a time when we used forums (before facebook) to show off projects and talk tech, but with current social media, I just havent bothered much. Glad Guy created this one, so tech minded people can geek out on what we love.
Guy has posted pretty much my whole build on here, but i'll go thru and answer any questions the best i can.
So we had a couple of issues, one of which was my VGT turbo.
Scored a new turbo from a friend, needed the exhaust housing installed, I misaligned the veins and burnt up a new turbo actuator. Thankfully, Guy had a spare.

I’ve got it running and the tach is sending rpm signal to the dash but I still have too jump start it and the key won’t send the starter power/signal and tips in what to do next or what I have wrong to get the key to work and I have these codes

I would have bet it was the P1260 Theft Detected. But Guy would know better for sure. Follow what he tells you and he will get you there.
Is this my true key on power to run to my 12volt switched wire for my tach helper by my obd 2 port if not where should it be and is it already hooked up

not sure you find the wiring info here https://fumminstuning.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/150000219347-6-4-ford-super-duty a test light will tell you, some wires there are pass through and some oem for options. Ignition is hot under crank, accessory is not
So I ended up going with my dodge mechanical flan clutch so is that something that is holding me up and then I have MAP, Oil Temp, Coolant Temp, and Oil Pressure then all the swap helper wires needed and then of course all the plug and cables that just hook right up like alternator, ac compressor, etc and then I have my turbo soldered into make the full circuit but everything else I haven’t messed with can you think of anything I’m missing that needs done for the truck to function properly
On my 2010 6.4 powerstroke to 96 dodge 12v swap do I need this, and then along with that on the whole engine wiring harness out of all the wires and plugs what are the the only ones that I need for my swap

that is the glow plug module, not needed unless you plan to run a grid heater and control it by the 6.4 ECM. Last swap we did we used MAP, oil psi, ECT, FAN and optional EGT on the Ford harness. We also moved the MAP to the hot charge pipe to keep it shorter. I only swap in CR so the fan is your call on how you want to do that.
Lots of little things got done over the last two days. Here are pics of things cleaned up under the hood. Dan is also going to make a new intake tube, and we're still waiting on MAF and ambient/baro sensors to come in, but he is driving it home today.
Lots of things have been done over the last few days and it runs now. Some clean up under the hood, air filter and a bunch of small stuff. Dan kicked it all week.
We got the cab back on yesterday. It's bolted down, and the small stuff is underway. I have plans to start the final push on wiring today and get ti ready to fire tomorrow.
I will say Dan has put in the hours, minimum of 12-hour days since Saturday morning.
I worked late last night and didn't a chance to post, All the little stuff is done and we plan to drop the cab back on today. I didn't get many pics on the small stuff but i did the engine side and used a cam lock connector and ran all the Cummins wiring for quick removal if ever needed.

This is how I have been doing power steering on these swaps, Cheap and easy, Two words Dan says often 😂
The high psi line swings around and clears the gearbox. Typically, I use a 90 at the suction side for more room.
I stopped in for a check-up on Dan's progress, and he has the engine back in. Not bad for the second day, and he is still working away on it.
Tomorrow i will start the wiring, and we should have the cab on tomorrow afternoon.


Here are some pics from the start of Dan's truck. Dan and I started on this today. Dan is a local guy near my shop, and we worked out a deal so he could build his truck this coming week. If you see his name on Facebook, give him a shout-out. Solid guy.
The truck is getting a stock Cummins 6.7 and about the best converter money can buy with the stock trans.
The engine was a used one i had picked up along with an older DCS adapter and Destroked mounts.
Here are the pics from today's work, i will post all this week and see how far we can get in a week.
Not bad for a day's work, you'd almost think i have done this before :)

Sharp looking truck.